San Pedro Springs Park

There are several state parks and state natural areas not far from San Antonio, some of which are simply gorgeous. The city itself sports a number of parks and one of them, in sight of Downtown, is, I think, rather special.

San Pedro Springs Park is not only the oldest park in Texas but almost the oldest municipal park in the United States. The springs and surrounding area were designated as public land by King Philip V of Spain in 1729, but the earliest recorded inhabitants were the Payaya Indians, who referred to their village as Yanaguana and are known to have practised ritual ceremonies here.

Due to all the spring water flowing underground, the trees in this park are huge, especially the live oaks; I have rarely seen such thick trunks and long, sprawling limbs in other parks here. Some of the limbs have dropped to the ground making the trees look sculptural – dinosaur trees, I call them. A creek runs through the park and there is also a small spring-fed pond where a night heron occasionally lounges. A bandstand with a rather handsome dome sits before a small library and a popular theatre, all three built in the late 1920s.

For many, the highlight of the park is its huge swimming pool, which is free to the public and open every summer to coincide with school holidays. There are about 30 such pools in San Antonio but this one is gorgeously lined with tall, overhanging cypress trees so that you can lie coolly in heat that might touch a hundred degrees on an off during the hottest part of summer. The pool has been rebuilt twice since it first opened in 1922 and is still spring fed. The water temperature is perfect, not too warm, and it was lovely to see and hear hordes of children having fun when I went there the other day during some construction work at our house. All children under 18 are allowed a free meal as part of the San Antonio summer meals program, thus ensuring that the many who receive free meals at school do not go undernourished during the summer months; San Pedro Springs Pool is only one of many locations where such a service is provided. It was touching to see the kids lining up at the counter and I thought of all those currently stuck at the border or already separated from their parents.

The park is surrounded by a small block of attractive south-western style buildings that house a lawyer or two, and many small, some not so small, houses that mostly belong to poorer folk. But like similar neighbourhoods in San Antonio – now Texas’ fastest growing city – already there are signs of the area becoming gentrified, like the nearby flower shop and a small restaurant with tables outside that advertises organic meals.

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